There is never a dull moment in product development or understanding product actives in hair and skin care. In coming up to the release of our new Kasia Citrus n' Spice Shampoo and Conditioner, I would like to share some simple concepts that may clear some questions you’ve once pondered, and possibly never thought about!
PH and Hair Care
Using detergent (sugar enhanced of course) on your hair may sound a little harsh, but I can tell you that it's a good idea. In working through different formula options for our new base shampoo, I thought simplifying it down to just essential oils and a Pure Castile Soap would work great!
Major …..Wrongo! Here is why.
According to the cosmetic chemists, detergent is actually better for your hair than soap. Soap solutions are alkaline, which makes the cuticle cells swell up and get rougher. That leaves hair dull looking. In addition, soap may leave behind deposits of calcium and magnesium (known as soap scum), which will also make the hair dull. Old-fashioned beauty books suggested completing your shampoo with a lemon juice or vinegar rinse. Acid helps dissolve soap scum and makes the cuticle scales lie flat, protecting the cortex and making your hair shiny and smooth. Most shampoos and conditioners are slightly acidic, for the same reason.
How does conditioner help you out? A conditioner leaves a smooth, waxy coating on the hair, strengthening the cuticle or forming a protective layer over the cortex where cuticule cells have broken away.
Hair can tangle when the lifted edges of the cuticle layer on one hair get caught on the cuticle layer on another hair. By adding a proteins and other ingredients to smooth out these rough edges, conditioner helps keep your hair from tangling. This coating also helps reduce static electricity and seals moisture into your hair, keeping it from getting dry and brittle.
Rest assure - fine hair frenzy, our new conditioner will be powerful but weightless. Many think that they should use more conditioner during times of bad hair days, but this is also not true and it is possible to overdo a good thing. Over-conditioning" your hair means you've used so much conditioner that the waxy layers are weighing your hair down, making it limp and unmanageable.
Our suggestion is to use an appropriate ammout of conditioner, wash, and manage damage with heat protectors and serums (try our John Masters or Hamadi collection). No chemicals of course.
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For the non-fact finders: PH, which stands for potential of hydrogen, measures the acid or alkaline levels of a solution.
The pH scale ranges from 0-14
* Acid 0-6.9 (coffee, lemon juice)
* Neutral 7 (pure water)
* Alkaline 7.1-14 (toothpaste, baking soda)
Harsh chemicals (whether acid or alkaline) can strip away the hair and skin's protective layer, or acid mantle. So stick to a gentle cleansers to keep your skin soft and supple, and avoid over washing in general. It can cause dry, lackluster skin.
Healthy, normal hair ranges from 4.5 to 5.5. When hair becomes too alkaline, it can look damaged and dull. The solution? Find a low pH product (around 3.0-3.5) to put your tresses back in balance. Your shiny, smooth hair will thank you.