Inside a Hair Colorist Education File!

Hair Color Education -- INsight!

Defining Hair Structure

Human hair is a complex structure of many layers of fiber.

To understand the chemistry of hair color and appreciate the uniqueness of the Mastey Hair Color System, we must first travel farther inside the hair.

The atom is the smallest unit of molecular structures. Atoms combine to form molecules. A protein molecule is a chain of smaller units called amino acids.

These amino acids form a spiraling chain called the helix. Seven of these helical coils chemically bond together forming a protofibril. Protofibrils join together to form the microfibril, which are bonded into macrofibrils, and the macrofibrils associate to form the cortical fibrils, or bundles

All these fibers twisting and bonding together create the cortex of the hair, which is protected by the translucent outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle

The cuticle consists of 7 to 10 layers of cuticle cells. It is the first line of defense against any physical or chemical damage to the hair.

Because of its armor-like structure, the condition of the cuticle has always been of the utmost concern in the formulation of hair care products

Characteristics of Hair

The 5 ways to characterize human hair:

  • Texture: Fine, medium and coarse. Fine hair accepts color faster, and is easier and quicker to lighten than coarse hair. Coarse hair is more resistant to color processing
  • Density: Dense hair needs more hair color product to properly cover all hair. To avoid lighter lines of demarcation, make sure the hair is not pressed against the scalp while processing.
  • Hair Porosity: Porous hair accepts color easier and also may release color faster. Holds moisture and liquid, and accepts coolness while rejecting warmth. Dry, non-porous hair has the tendency to resist color, and is more difficult to lighten.
  • Hair Tenacity: Tenacious hair is more difficult to color. The tight cuticle structure makes it more resistant and difficult to penetrate, and needs maximum processing time.
  • Hair Elasticity: Elastic hair has the ability to stretch and return to its natural state. If the hair does not stretch, or is not in excellent condition, it should be treated with Mastey SuperPac before coloring to rebuild its structure.

Components in Permanent Hair Color

There are 3 essential components in permanent hair color: Intermediate dyes, hydrogen peroxide and an alkaline agent.

Intermediate Dyes: These oxidative dyes are used to create permanent hair color when combined with hydrogen peroxide and ammonia.

  1. Hydrogen Peroxide: We us a Crème Developer that is a stabilized hydrogen peroxide formulated with lipids to prevent dehydration to the hair structure during hair color process. Its gentle conditioning formula supplies the oxidation needed to develop the intermediate dyes (artificial pigment), and to decolorize the natural pigment (melanin granules) in the cortex.
  1. Alkaline Agent (usually Ammonia): helps retain the hydrogen peroxide molecule longer in the hair to complete the development of artificial pigment to produce the new hair color. Also it opens the cuticle to allow the penetration of the hair color molecules.
  1. The amount of ammonia varies from level to level system. Darker levels of artificial pigment have less ammonia and more pigment. Therefore their lifting ability is low. Lighter levels contain more ammonia and less pigment and more lifting ability.

If the color line is void of ammonia, again, most likely it contains MEA/TEA. Ethanolamine

Ethanolamine has always been used in demi-permanant color at about 3% concentration.  It provide an relatively mild alkaline environment as compared to the ammonia in permenant color. This is perfect for that desired demi effect.

However, if it is to be used in permanant color, the concentration has to be increased to about 9%, compared to 1.8-3% of ammonia!

In using so much of it, compounded with its "adhesive" property, it can never be totally washed out of the hair and scalp!  As a result, every time the hair is washed, the water H2O acts as a mild oxidizer and "process" the color a little bit all over again which is what contributed to pre-matured fading and the dryness developed gradually.

The same applies to natural hair levels. Darker natural shades contain more pigment than lighter natural shades.

Kasia Salon is FREE of Ammonia or Ethenolomine.

What makes hair color fade fast?

Harsh ingredients and harsh environments

Natural hair pigments come in different sizes, some large, others very small. Regardless of the size, the hair color base and the hydrogen peroxide oxidize all pigments.

In permanent hair color, the cortex area receives intermediate and preformed dyes. After multiple shampooings (especially with shampoo products that contain sodium laureth sulfate), and exposure to UV lights, these dyes start fading within a few weeks.

Choosing the proper shampoos, conditioners and UV protected styling products will help prolong the life of color.

To learn more about Kasia Organic Salon products and zero ammonia hair color, give Kassie  a call at 612 386 4044.

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