facials

Retinol: What you really should know...

How does “that woman” get such smooth and bright skin?

Here, I lend my thoughts on RETINOL, a topic that tends to come up often when clients are inquiring about the best "anti-aging" skin room facial tactics to at home treatment care.  Most clients are first exposed to Retinol (and its many forms) in a medical spa or dermatologist office.    

Some believe that it is an amazing age renewal staple, and some tread much more lightly. However, it’s an ingredient to be well-informed about prior to using. It’s often recommended as a “cure-all” power-ingredient, but should it be?    Let's dig in. 

Retinol 101 - What it is?

retinol.jpg

Retinol, of the retinoid family, is a derivative of Vitamin A. There are many forms, names (retinyl palmitate, retinol, retinal, tretinoin) and percentages available of retinoids and it comes in both natural forms (for example, in rose-hip) and most popularly - synthetically derived forms.

True to it's longevity.... it’s been around since the late 1940s and was a "breakout"  in the 1980s when it hit the market as an anti-aging ingredient.  Later it became a hot item prescribed as Accutane or every teens’ favorite, Retin-A have been highly used by dermatologists for years. 

What It Does

Essentially Retinol plumps and sloughs off skin cells in which effectively “pushes wrinkles up from within the skin."    It works by stimulating and increasing the production of healthy skin cells.” This cell turn over can lead to more even skin tone and a brighter complexion.

Who It's Best For

If you’ve spent a substantial amount of time in the sun, retinol can help you reverse first signs of aging that have resulted from that prolonged sun exposure. The formulations that are widely available today without a prescription are lower in retinol concentration that can be enjoyed by virtually anyone who wants to refine skin texture, battle breakouts and fine lines.

Added Benefits

Retinol "action" can boost your collagen production, leading to a reduction in fewer wrinkles, and firmer skin.” It can even help unclog pores, which is why so many dermatologists recommend retinoids for teens fighting acne.

Retinol VS. Retin-A - What's the difference?   

In short, retinol is the stuff you can by at your local sephora and retin-A requires a prescription from your derm (as does Accutane).

images (1).jpeg

So why isn't everyone using it?

This is where my experienced, well researched and thoughtful opinion comes in.  There's a few points to debate on the topic of retinoid use.

1.  Retinols are put in so many products.  Sunlight makes products less effective, but most importantly — and we want to make this clear because it’s so, so important — retinol can make you very photosensitive. If you don’t wear sunscreen, you can get burned.  

2.  Many (including myself) Skin Therapists also believe that retinol is overused. “Retinol is useful for people who have genetically challenging acne. However, in my opinion, if you have not had consistent breakout since the onset of puberty, or tend to have pimples here and there, retinols are usually not the answer to your breakout problems.   

3. Worst yet, Retionols used over time or in intense treatments, can thin out your skin or change how the oil glands within your skin work.  

Caution When Using:   Heavy-duty retinoid medications, like Accutane, are so strong that they can cause birth defects and liver issues. Retinoids can can over due your skin, especially if you’re young enough - that you just don't need that heavy of a hitter. 

My bottom line.... 

There are multiple products and specific ingredients that can catalyze a response just like retinoids produce. Retinoids are pretty harsh on the skin and as a formulator, I've included this same byproduct and action through botanical extracts.  I personally do not want to subject myself to treatments I walk away from completely red and peeling. At Beauty Ecology, accurate exfoliating practices at home and services such as professional-strength none invasive peels and  our newest tech skin needling collagen rejuvenation pen - are incredible alternatives that work.    

When to consider stronger exfoliating and cell renewal treatments.

I suggest strong cellular turnover type products for those well into their aging process and in need of a boost. Typically, this would be someone over the age of 35, because its known our skin cell turnover rate starts slowing around 30 years old.

l.jpg

Natural alternative ingredients to look for that can help with cell turnover:

-Vitamin C (we use Vitamin C Esters)  which possesses a superior ability to stimulate growth of the cells (fibroblasts) that help produce collagen, elastin and fosters tissue growth and repair.  Fat-soluble Vitamin C Ester-unlike ascorbic acid, drives deeper and does not go rancid when exposed to air giving it's full potential as an anti-aging agent.

From the Deep Sea:  Marine actives provide concentrates of vital elements in our age-defying skin care products, and are the safest and most effective alternatives available.

alg.jpg

-Our active seaweed ingredients (Laminaria + HCL algae complex) testing demonstrated a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles by 35% over a 90-day period. This demonstrates our ability to deliver results comparable to Retin-A and Alpha Hydroxyl Acids without the skin irritation usually associated with those ingredients. WOW, right?!

-Red Algae is beloved due to its high water and vitamin content, red algae is a perfect ingredient to help with the exfoliating process.  I use red algae in our skincare products to clarify and balance the skin, bring cellular renewal and for its firming effects.

-Alpha hydroxy acids (our sea flora glycolic peel)

-Marine Criste Extract or “Sea Retinol” is a patented Sea Retinol visibly smoothes wrinkles and creates a radiant complexion.

-Flower Acids are an incredible breakthrough! Flower acids are obtained from the hibiscus flower in South Africa to provide skin exfoliation without the burn. This anti-inflammatory approach is made possible by the fact that it contains pyruvic acid (an AHA) that converts to lactic acid only when it has penetrated into the skin. This allows for a gradual peel “without the burn.”

-Rosehip seed oil is also an excellent source of trans-retinoic acid that may not have the risk of potential irritation that prescription retinoid acid might cause. Rosehip is plentiful in our CBD Skin Healing Booster.


k.jpg

How to properly choose and use retinol.

Before purchasing OTC retinol or getting a prescription through your dermatologist, here are some basic guidelines:

- All forms of Vitamin A break down and become unstable in the presence of exposed light and air, so it’s crucial to purchase retinol that is packaged in opaque containers or tubes, which is why they often come in metal tubes in prescription form.

- Do not apply retinol daily, but rather every other day. Gradual usage is key here so that your skin can acclimate to this active ingredient. If your skin is resilient and shows no signs of sensitivity, thereafter you may apply it once a day. Stop using retinol if irritation occurs with persistent use.

- The best time to apply retinol is at night because exposure to the sun can decrease its effectiveness.

- Use nourishing ingredients to help protect your skin while using this potent vitamin. Our Evoq products are wonderful to use in conjunction (and sometimes in place of) with retinol.

- Always wear sunscreen on a daily basis when using retinol.

The drawbacks of topical prescription retinoids.

- Skin irritation and side effects including: dryness, flakiness, thinning of the skin (if overused), sun sensitivity and redness.

- Filler ingredients such as: stearic acid, isopropyl myristate, polyoxyl 40 stearate, stearyl alcohol, and butylated hydroxytoluene are commonly used in retinoid creams and gels. Though not all ingredients prove toxic, do these align with your skin care philosophy?

- Cannot be used during pregnancy.

- Not suitable for sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema.

If GOING THE NATURAL ROUTE

As noted, EVOQ BEAUTY brings the most effective and biomimetic ingredients the forces of nature can provide. While I do understand that the medical approach to skin care, it's good to know there are more options for everyday care in the world of vitamin A!  Let's not be so hard on ourselves, and our skin!

 

XO Kassandra  ** Book online or ping me if you have questions about our incredible skin resurfacing (GLOW) treatments!   

Facial Cupping - Plump & Glow Services at BE

A Modern Skin Health Approach with Facial Cupping

Facial Cupping History - Women from Asia to Europe have been utilizing  negative pressure techniques called facial cupping for facial rejuvenation and youth maintenance for 5000 years.

This gentle and effective treatment of a light suction technique is as an all-natural alternative to a surgical facelift or laser and chemical treatments.

Our current facial clients are loving how it tones the facial muscles and reduces under eye puffiness. It literally give you a lift by improving the blood circulation to your facial muscles. Say good-bye to double chin, jowls and facial bloating!

Instant Benefits Inside - Out

This de-stressing facial treatment increases circulation and nutrients to the skin, increases lymphatic flow, and reduces inflammation.

 

By increasing blood flow and circulation to the skin, your skin will regain its youthful appearance. Results are seen and felt immediately. Be impressed by its subtle power and incredible results.

Body and Face Metabolic & Structural Benefits

Over time, metabolic waste gets built up in our superficial fascia. When this happens, our superficial fascia can develop restrictions that impede proper flow of nutrients and waste products between our skin, fascia, and muscles. 

Suction creates space, allowing for the dermis to make new choices with regards to nutrients, drainage, and repair. Our facial soft-tissue is arranged in a series of concentric layers: skin, subcutaneous fat, superficial fascia, mimetic muscle, deep facial fascia, and facial nerves, parotid duct and the buccal fat pad. And in cupping massage, the layers get de-compressed a bit; just enough to make a difference.


How does it work?

* Suction tubes designed for the face are used to rhythmically and gently vacuum tissues of the face and neck.

* The suction created, lifts, tones, and plumps muscles. It relaxes facial muscles and plumps the lines father time has etched on your face.

* It moves toxins and stagnant blood out, and ushers new nutrient-enriched blood and fluids in, to detoxify your face; thereby repairing and nourishing your face.

* Its deep invigorating action increases elastin and collagen; preserving our youthfulness. It reverses gravity’s effects on your face; giving a youthful glow.

* It gives your face a lymphatic drainage and increases circulation, resulting in a clearer, cleaner, more even complexion with beautiful- healthy color.

 Results & Benefits You Can Expect:

– Relaxes tension in facial muscles, easing expression lines
– Improves blood circulation for color and even tone
– Plumps wrinkles and facial lines
– Lift Sagging Face (cheek-lift, eyelid-lift, jowl-lift)
– Tones up and evens out the jaw-line
– Facial glow as fresh nutrients brought to the epidermis
– Tighten pores
– Drains stagnant fluid to ease puffiness and reduce edema
– Increases collagen production for youthfulness
– Improves elasticity to tighten loose skin
– Soften and reduce scar tissue
– Clear Acne
– Tighten ‘loose’ veins that appear red on skin surface
– Reduce headaches and migraines
– Relieve sinus issues
– Increases lymphatic drainage around the face
– Enhances absorption of face products you use
– Loosen rigid muscles of TMJ

Schedule the Treatment ...Plump n Glow. 

GET THE RADIANT GLOW.  BOOK IT! 

For more information about our integrative skin therapies and cupping, please contact us for a free consultation or to make an appointment. 
30 Minutes: $45
Add On Focus Facial: $20
 

hello@beautyecology.com

Book Online Here

Salon: 612.824.7611

Text: 612.386.4044

BE Well.    xo

2011 Best Spa Service!

Thank you to Minnesota Monthly and your accolade to Kasia Organic Salon/Services!

We know you face choices everyday regarding where to spend your time, and at Kasia, we sincerely appreciate you spending it with us.  We never take your trust for granted, and want to earn it everyday.  We take great pleasure in the "Beautiful Health" Beauty service alternatives, and we aim to exceed your expectations!

Did you Catch the best of MPLS natural services? SEE HERE!

Twin Cities spas go eco-friendly ELIZABETH DEHN , Special to the Star Tribune

Kasia Organic Spa People often come to Kasia Organic Spa in a panic after developing an allergy (e.g. itching, rashes) to professional hair color, said owner Kassie Kuehl. What they find is one of the best-kept beauty secrets: "Ammonia-free hair color doesn't cause a reaction, and actually lasts longer than traditional formulas because it doesn't open up the cuticle as much," said Kuehl. Just a year old, the laid-back south Minneapolis spa has become a destination for natural-beauty products and services. Facials include a skin-health analysis and plans for an at-home regimen, and Kuehl parlays her background as a personal trainer and functional medicine practitioner into customized cleanses for clients.

Try:  Permanent hair color free of ammonia and other chemicals, or Kasia's line of natural sun care and Pure-odorant deodorant.

Details:  822 W. 50th St., Mpls., 612-824-7611.

// User Icon Setting (may be set to BLACK, WHITE or NONE):